24 Sept 2010

Trykit 2WD first impressions

*


The working parts of the Trykit 2WD, double free-wheel drive "freehub".

The entire assembly floats on the inner ends of the two rear axles. Supported by the push fit, oversized, sealed, journal ball bearings. Being so well sealed the bearings offer excellent protection for the internal ratchets, pawls and their carriers. The Shimano cassette fit, 2WD freehub body itself is machined from high quality steel, hardened and plated. The central disk spacer is to aid pushing out the pawl carriers for examination. The pawl carriers have hexagonal bores to take the drive from the mounted cassette, independently, to both rear axles. The Trykit 2WD freehub offers two wheel drive in a compact, robust and lightweight package. The Trykit freehub is easily dismantled without tools. The pawl and their springs are always safely retained in their carriers. So nothing can "fly away" during occasional dismantling for inspection and possible re-lubrication with a light grease.

_________________________________________________________

I will just scribble a few notes before bedtime while the first 2WD riding experience is fresh in my mind:

It was nearing 7pm when I had finished assembly of the Trykit 2WD system of twin free-wheels in a specially made "freehub" style body. I tightened and checked the wheel nuts and pointed the trike down the gravel drive. Just as I had done several hundred times before. I had not refitted my large cloth shopping bag so the trike felt quite a bit lighter and more "agile" than usual. I immediately noticed a front wheel wobble and so did my wife who was seeing me off.  The wobble was odd but inexplicable. I had quickly checked the tyre pressures and head bearings. No obvious problems there. (In retrospect I think the wobble was the trike trying to overcome my reluctance to let it have its head.  I was fighting my ingrained instincts to resist the constant rightwards turning tendency of 1WD.  Causing the trike to feel as if it was weaving)

I took it easy until I reached the road. The trike felt very strange. As if I was learning how to ride one all over again. It seemed to be weaving slightly when I pedalled hard. A bit worrying at first but nothing seemed about to fall off. Once on the road I gradually built up speed until I was doing my usual 20mph. I let go of the handlebars while still pedalling hard up a slight incline and found the trike kept a dead straight course! Normally it would have headed straight for the verge in a hurry. 

I rode on to the nearest real hill, pedalling hard and still feeling a slight weaving effect. There I found that I could climb without holding the handlebars. This was novel indeed! Normally the front wheel would almost lift off the road and jerk viciously to the right on every pedal stroke. I liked this new neutrality a lot. I went in search of a steeper hill to check my findings. The trike still felt fast and agile but seemed to be steering itself at times. Particularly if I deliberately pedalled hard enough to bend the entire trike into a weaving motion at lower pedal revs. The feeling was as if the head bearings were stiff. Though they are actually far too loose and really need replacing.
 
Cornering had taken on an interesting new feel depending whether I pedalled hard or just tried to maintain speed. Some times it almost seemed to under-steer. At others it was completely neutral. I rode loops up and down on the steepest local hill (fortunately a very quiet lane) to test out my feelings about this 2WD.

My immediate conclusion is that I would have had far less trouble learning to ride a trike with 2WD. It no longer had the nasty 1WD vices which had made me over-react in the early days and later. The feeling of danger as the trike headed for the verge with a mind of its own was now completely absent. I could now maintain a smooth line on heavy camber no matter how hard I pedalled.  The slight under-steer was merely a lack of turning motion from the former 1WD. As was the slight weaving. The trike wasn't misbehaving any more but it felt as it was doing the complete opposite. I was actually sensing the trike correcting itself. Instead of my having to make constant subconscious corrections for its 1WD faults. (i.e.Its unwanted clockwise turning tendency)

I had read that a disadvantage of 2WD was the inner wheel drive making it harder to pull away or turn sharply at low speed. I found no such problems. I turned tight circles on the steep hill without any untoward resistance to my pedalling. Though admittedly I was already in a low gear.

The absence of sideways pull was delightful. I had theorised endlessly for many months, before ordering the Trykit 2WD. How it would cope with European camber? How would it know which wheel to drive to lift the trike out of the right side gutter? The strange answer is that it simply does know what to do without trying. 

I could only manage about half an hour, and five miles of messing about on the lanes, before I had to return home to tidy up. My impressions so far are all entirely positive! I couldn't resist trying to sprint out of the saddle on our very loose, gravel drive just for fun. Normally I can get the drive wheel to spin effortlessly even while sitting down. It always took quite a distance to get any real speed up. With 2WD I accelerated hard and shot down the drive without so much as the slightest slip of my smooth and skinny 700 x 23mm tyres. Absolutely amazing!

I cannot imagine anybody being able to compete on grass or gravel with 1WD against machines fitted with Trykit 2WD mechanisms. It would be hardly worth turning up for a grass track race with 1WD. Not unless the grass was bone dry, there were no straights and the course ridden clockwise. This would put the drive wheel on the outside where it would gain most grip from any tipping tendency on the curves.

BTW: There is zero sensation through the pedals of the drive shifting from one axle to the other. I had worried about this too but there is absolutely nothing to report. Naturally I shall share my experiences further when I have had a proper ride tomorrow. I am looking forward to it even more than usual. The slightly wider track seems to have taken away some of the lateral vibration on rough roads. It feels much more steady. A bit like my even wider and more sedate Longstaff conversion but much lighter and more lively. It's a shame I have to put the big shopping bag back on tomorrow.

----------------------------------------------------------

24th September 2010. My first proper ride with the Trykit 2WD fitted.  The big bag was lashed back onto the seat stays. The immediate impression was how fast, relaxed and effortless the trike had become. Instead of crabbing constantly to the right all my energy was now going into forward motion. The effect was very noticeable on undulating roads. The friction of the front tyre pressing sideways against the road was now completely absent. I was blasting along up hill and down dale at speeds I could only dream about before today. I was climbing hills on the middle chainring which needed the small one only yesterday. 

The most noticeable effect on the flat is when cornering to the right on really steep camber. I used to avoid the inside of these corners and ride as far out as I dared, depending on following traffic. Now the 2WD could be used to physically lift the trike up the camber simply by pedalling a little harder. Pedal too hard and it felt (almost) as if I could end up in the middle of the road! I really don't think this was an unwanted vice with the 2WD system. More like a lack of 2WD experience on my part. Compensating for the ingrained turning effect of OWD would take some time to unlearn.

After ~10,000 miles of riding one wheel drive trikes over the last 18+ months I have yet to reprogram myself to the completely different sensations with 2WD. I have been subconsciously compensating for so long, that not having to do so, feels like the 2WD is pushing me the opposite way. In fact the two wheel drive is completely neutral. It is my own senses which are still wrong from becoming so accustomed to the bad habits of OWD.

Climbing steep hills was a revelation!  I deliberately went looking for hills to test out the 2WD system. No more snatching to the right! The trike just keeps its nose pointing in the right direction. I could even loose my grip on the handlebars and stay on the straight and narrow! This is truly stunning performance after struggling for a year with the OWD vices on the Higgins. The 2WD actually seems to flatten the hills out. They are no longer the test of patience and gritting my teeth which they once were.

There were some odd moments when I was pulling away when it felt as if the trike wanted to go its own way. (though only slightly) This depended on the starting angle of the handlebars. Again this was because I no longer needed to turn the bars so far to overcome the strong 1WD turning tendency to the right. Low pedal revs and low speed seems to find an occasional feeling of weaving. Perhaps this too is my automatically compensating for a now-missing 1WD vice? My normal cadence of 90+rpm eliminates any tendency to weave.

Those of you living in a country where traffic drives on the right would do well to consider the Trykit 2WD system. Highly recommended based on the 30 miles so far.

----------------------------------------------------------------

I managed another 17 miles this afternoon while concentrating hard on what I sensed about the 2WD system. Again the ride was more relaxed, secure, quieter and still felt much quicker than usual. It really is difficult to separate the 2WD effects from my own "automatic pilot" OWD reactions. Occasionally as I crested the brow of a low hill while pedalling hard the trike felt as if it wanted to go straight on. I'm almost sure this was due to my own senses being fooled by the lack of the usual turning tendency to the right.


Trykit 2WD with 8 speed Shimano cassette. I made the brass spacer ring in the lathe.

Old habits die hard and 40-odd miles is not enough to undo thousands of miles of ingrained expectations. I have become so accustomed to the OWD that even a neutral  force will feel as if it is pushing the other way. Just as a trike feels as if it is pushing you about when you first change over from a bike.

I have been trying to sprint out of the saddle far more than usual and find the trike has quite a strong "straight ahead" tendency. Easily overcome with a slight turn of the handlebars but slightly unexpected for the habitual OWD rider. What is surprising is that the tyres are much quieter when not slipping about on every bit of sand and gravel at junctions. The lack of wheel spin feels much more secure in traffic.

I have discovered one slight, unforeseen problem so far. If I stop in a high gear I can no longer just lift the drive wheel to drop onto a lower gear with a flick of the pedals. So pulling away takes a bit longer while I find a lower gear. I shall just have to learn to drop onto a smaller chainwheel as I come to a halt each time. No real hardship with a little practice. If the trike wasn't so heavily loaded I could lift the whole back end to drop down a few gears while at a standstill.

The extra half inch of track width is well worth having on rough roads. The trike no longer behaves quite like the bucking bronco which I have become so used to on the badly maintained lanes and roads.

In summary, I would suggest that riding a OWD (one wheel drive) trike is handicapping both yourself as a rider and the capabilities of the machine itself. The advantages of 2WD make the choice automatic for trike riders living outside the UK. Even within the UK, where you have the benefit of OWD to lift the trike out of the left gutter, then a Trykit 2WD still makes a lot of sense.

On the Higgins you get new, stronger axles without the stress raising machining at the most critically loaded points of both axles. You get considerable freedom from wheel spin on wet roads, steep inclines, fords, grass, sand, snow, ice and gravel. Climbing steep hills will become much easier. Any tendency for the machine to try and turn right is completely eliminated. No doubt you'd get much lighter tire wear into the bargain.  Once 2WD has been tried there is no going back to OWD. To do so would be unthinkable.

 -----------------------------------------------------------------

Another update:  I have discovered that I can ignore camber with 2WD. My habit of riding on the crown of the road on heavily cambered lanes is now unnecessary. The terrifying bits of camber of the last 18 months have been neutralised. There were many places where it was simply too awkward to pedal while leaning so far over to compensate for the trike's own lean. So I completely avoided riding on the right just there. I really resented the odd passing car which forced me back into the danger zone. Now I can sit upright and pedal effortlessly along. No awkwardness or discomfort. Not even the sense of fear that I might actually tip over if I miscalculated my degree of lean. Or found a sunken place where the camber dropped away even more. This is quite a shocking discovery after all the time and thousands of miles I have covered  travelling these same lanes. My triking experience is transformed even more than the new ease of climbing. I feel so much more at one with the machine. As it urges me over every obstacle which once caused me problems. This is all thanks to the Trykit 2WD system.

---------------------------------------------------------------

[30 Sept] Yet another update: I am still delighted with all the advantages of 2WD. I have discovered that the system can be fooled if heavy pedal pressure is applied in a low gear with the handlebars turned sharply. Even a short incidence of wheel spin is possible if one tries hard enough. Over time I have detected a slight "straight ahead" tendency when pedalling hard. I can't imagine anyone finding this obnoxious unless they regularly ride with no hands on the bars. And, if they did, they would have ended up going round in circles with OWD. With 2WD you stay on the tarmac.

There is a greater pedal resistance to turning sharply at the traffic exclusion barriers (chicanes) on bicycle paths. But exactly the same occurred previously on the opposite lock with OWD. All it takes is the forethought to drop a gear or two for the likely speed involved in negotiating the barriers. Now I just drop automatically onto the smallest chainwheel.

The trike still rolls away (all too eagerly) going forwards or backwards when parked on the slightest incline. So there has been no increase in low speed axle friction. Quite the contrary. On descents the trike seems even faster. I have exceeded 35mph where my norm was 29-30mph free-wheeling down one local hill. I seem to be going faster on the flat too. I am also returning from my daily rides in better shape than ever before.

Camber has become almost irrelevant and the tiredness in my arms from constantly fighting it has completely gone. It amazes me to remember how some heavily cambered roads used to make me feel very unsafe indeed. Even after nearly a year of riding them regularly. Now they seem completely innocuous no matter how fast or hard I pedal.  I could never quite believe the degree of handlebar turn required just to maintain a straight line on a heavily cambered, straight road.

Sprinting out of the saddle with OWD was a complete joke. Even when I didn't get instant wheel spin the trike still wanted to head for the nearest weeds on the right. With 2WD it is much more like riding a bike. I now consider myself excused from climbing long hills out of the saddle. Because I don't want to risk my knees. I climbed one long and steep hill in a high gear [48 x 14] this week just to see if I could. My knees were the only part of me to complain so I'm not trying that again! It is so much easier to sit and twiddle my way uphill now.

Overall there is really nothing much to criticise about the Trykit 2WD "double freewheel" system. Climbing has become a real pleasure instead of an irritating chore. I still have to pedal (of course) but there is a real sense of going full ahead. Instead of crabbing constantly off to the right. Not to mention the former, vicious, handlebar movements of OWD on steeper climbs. I now find it much easier to maintain a high cadence in a lower gear and still maintain a good speed. The overall effect is one of it being much less tiring to climb any hill. There is a very real sense of improved climbing power for the same input.

Nothing would induce me to return to OWD now. In fact it would take an awful lot of the fun out of tricycling to have to go back to OWD. My average speed, according to my bike computer, has risen only recently by about 1 mph from 13 to 14mph based on a 2.5k recorded mileage. Given the constantly undulating nature of any ride I am rather cheered by this improvement.


The stealth, Trykit 2WD, double freehub fitted with an 8 speed Shimano cassette.
The gear cable would be much better dressed to run outside the vertical reinforcing loop.The wear on the paint suggests this was the usual route.

Please remember that all my remarks apply to riding on the right hand side of the road in Continental Europe. UK tricyclists with OWD should try to find somebody with 2WD to see if the same advantages apply. The normal road camber works in favour of OWD in the UK. My own (necessarily) short experiments with riding on the left suggest that most of my trike's nasty OWD vices were much reduced. Those required to ride on the right in their own country should consider this 2WD system a "no brainer".

I won't discuss the price of the Trykit 2WD system because we all place different values on our cycling expenses. Compared with many accessories the 2WD is likely to offer considerable improvement in performance compared with items which are merely cosmetic. A flashy chainset won't make you go an inch per hour faster than a cheap one but is highly decorative. While an almost invisible Trykit 2WD will completely transform a OWD trike.

The Trykit Longstaff 2WD conversion is considerably cheaper than the Higgins type. Making it an even more obvious upgrade over OWD. Remember that you get brand new and much stronger axles with the Higgins conversions. You also get freedom from future axle maintenance by the conversion to journal bearings. My own experience is that these journal bearings (and their seals) do not affect rolling resistance at all. If anything they offer a very slight reduction IMO. Particularly over a badly-adjusted or badly worn, loose ball, cup and cone bearing system. You can even choose to change the hub fitting of the new Higgins axles to Longstaff or Trykit 15mm dimensions. Or even have the axles adapted for modern disk or spoked carbon fibre rear wheels for time trialling. Geoff Booker will machine axles to any reasonable requirement.

In use the Trykit system is totally silent. Thanks to the many pawls and fine ratchet teeth, drive take-up is instantaneous. There is quite literally no hesitation at all. Only when walking the trike slowly under quiet conditions can one actually hear the gentle buzz of the pawls "free-wheeling".

Spinning the rear wheels via the pedals (with the trike on a work stand) it seems to take ages for the wheels to come to a complete stop. Any imbalance in the wheels will show as the wheel rolls gently back and forth slowly before finally settling. This shows just how free the entire 2WD system really is. Those presently limited to an old-fashioned, obsolete, screw-on sprocket block, or even fixed wheel, will gain the freedom to fit a gear cassette of your own choice of up to 10 speeds. Even allowing index gears with a suitable gear lever and rear changer. 

It is now two weeks since I fitted the Trykit 2WD. As of the 5th October 2010 I have put over 400 miles on the Trykit 2WD since the 23rd of September. I have not had one single reason to begrudge the cost of the system. Not one second of doubt as to its amazing value in improving the performance of my 1954 Higgins trike quite beyond belief.
Dec 5th update: There are regular positive comments on the Trykit 2WD in the triking diary chapters which follow this one. If there is any doubt as to the efficacy of 2WD then look for my December chapter when the snow arrived. Enlarging the image below (by clicking on it) will show my direct ascent of a snow covered hill. Rising in a series of steps it is quite steep enough throughout to be tiring to climb at any time. On snow I was able to maintain a reasonable speed without any wheelspin.


First, winter, direct ascent of the north face with Trykit 2WD.

I have not needed to add wider, knobbly tyres for the snowy conditions. (as planned) Because there is simply no need. With my existing 23mm wide, dead smooth, rock hard, Bontrager Race Lite, 700C tyres I can climb quite decent hills in several inches of snow.

Though one is completely unaware of it, the moment one wheel starts to slip, drive is instantly taken up by the other wheel. The only way to achieve wheelspin is to turn the handlebars hard to the left or right. Otherwise it seems almost impossible. There is a very steep slope at a supermarket which I visit regularly. It must be about one in four or 25%. This slope has often been covered in snow and ice recently. Even when I'm in a very low gear I simply cannot make the wheels slip on this slope. Absolutely amazing!

Watching cars sliding about as they try to climb lesser slopes reminds us that the differential falls flat on its face in slippery conditions. Instead of each wheel assisting the climb they fight each other. The moment one wheel starts spinning all the drive is sent to that wheel.  The opposite occurs with the Trykit 2WD. All the advantages of four wheel drive seem to be achieved with the Trykit two wheel drive on a trike. If the handlebars are kept reasonable straight then both wheels drive together. The grip provided is astonishing. One can stand up on the pedals on a snowy or icy slope and accelerate smoothly without the least wheelspin. No wheelspin at all!

Last winter I was denied many of my regular, minor road routes because I only had 1WD. I couldn't maintain momentum on the same hills with the same tyres due to wheelspin. The advantages of two wheel drive are very obvious. I can continue to use my year-round tyres with their lower rolling resistance on all surfaces. It may be that the skinny tyres can cut through the snow better than wide tyres. Which would probably still sink in just as far. The wider tyres would need to compress a broader track in the snow. So the wider tyres would offer higher drag in all road conditions.


Click on any image for an enlargement. Back click to return to the text.
*

23 Sept 2010

Trykit Two Wheel Drive System

*

TRYKIT 2WD (Two Wheel Drive) CONVERSION SET


Trial assembly of the Trykit Two Wheel Drive system and journal bearings on the new axles.
Whoops! Experts will notice I have fitted the Trykit 2WD freehub back to front in this mock-up arrangement for the photograph. The locking ring should go behind the sprocket block/cassette.Not in front. In use, the upper axle in this image fits in the other side of the Trykit double ratchet, freehub body.

_________________________________________________________

The combination of riding on the "wrong" side of the road (compared with the UK) and regular axle rebuilds was leaving something to be desired. On steep climbs the front wheel would go light on every pedal stroke and then jerk hard to the right on opposite lock. This was exacerbated by holding the handlebars at the centre. Leaning forwards onto the brake hoods helped but was certainly not ideal for my breathing.

Experimentally moving over to the left side of the road (on quiet lanes when there was no traffic) immediately neutralised this bad behaviour. The problem is that one can only rarely ride on the left with any degree of safety in Denmark. It is expected that even a (slightly eccentric) English tricyclist rides on the correct (right) side of the road.

The original Higgins axle cones were showing signs of wear and required ever more regular dismantling and greasing to keep the axle quiet. The embarrassment of passing another cyclist with the axle clonking like an old-fashioned, clothes wringer was really getting on my nerves. I could have ordered some new axle cones from Chris Hewitt but I liked the wonderful silence and lack of maintenance of my Longstaff trike conversion.

So, after months of worrying about the considerable expenditure, I finally ordered a Trykit 2WD system. Which I would fit myself as a compete, made to measure "kit".  Normally Geoff Booker of Trykit would like to have the trike in his workshop. So that he could measure up accurately, make the parts to fit perfectly and then assemble them on the trike for the customer. I couldn't afford the cost of two way international transport for my trike. I also had the tools and skills to measure my Higgins accurately in the first place and then fit the device myself. Thankfully Geoff agreed to supply his 2WD system on this basis.

Apart from the special, double-freewheel, freehub body the DIY kit would include new axles and sealed journal bearings. The latter would be fitted into modified, bottom bracket, bearing cups. Lightweight alloy bearing cups were offered but I opted for the much cheaper, modified, secondhand bearing cups. While I do like the idea of a lightweight machine, the difference in weight between steel and alloy cups is hardly likely to matter to me. Not when compared with my huge shopping bag and "covers all risks" tool kit. I haven't weighed it but let's assume 5lbs minimum on every trip even before the shopping is stuffed in there.

 I use shopping trips to many different supermarkets as my goals for each daily ride. In Denmark most large, rural villages have at least one supermarket. Often more than one. This gives me quite a large choice of shops and routes within a fifteen mile radius to avoid my routes becoming stale. Fortunately I enjoy beautiful, rural countryside and quiet lanes to all of these shops in all directions.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------

Preparation and Assembly of the Trykit 2WD system:

The big shopping bag was removed from the Higgins. The wheels loosened and then the trike was lifted onto my cheap but excellent (£20) Lidl work stand at full height. I might as well be comfortable while finding my way around my first attempt at fitting the 2WD system. Lifting the trike onto the work stand without the heavy bag in place is really no problem at all.


The Higgins stripped of its axles and bearings rides high on the work stand. I should have tied the chain to the rear loop as well as the top to keep it well out of the way. I also removed the rear gear changer and hanger after I took this picture.


Oh, the excitement! The Trykit  package has finally arrived! I was (almost) tempted to do an "unpacking" video. Like the sort of thing they enjoy on YouTube. I'm afraid you'll have to make do with a few still images instead. ;-)

BTW: Trykit is Geoff Booker. He works alone, with the help of his wife. So delivery times are flexible depending on his workload and his (local and international) trike racing activities. In my case it took about a month from placing my order. This seems very reasonable considering that two precision axles had to be made to fit my trike exactly. (Trike axle width, or track, varies considerably so no two axles are likely to be identical)  No doubt an order for a Trykit trike has higher priority than a "humble" 2WD system. I'm really not sure. The chap has to eat as well as keep the world of international triking rolling along nicely.


The teaser shot! Nicely wrapped considering all the hidden components are tough steel.


The Higgins 2WD kit in all its glory! 

Beautifully machined with nicely waisted axles to save a fair bit of weight. This also provides a little flexibility and arguably greater strength in use. A stiffer axle would merely push the greatest loads out to the short distance between the outer bearings and the hubs. A slightly more flexible axle would help to take some of the road shocks from the wheels. Dissipating it safely in the much greater axle length between the bearings where the axle is much more lightly loaded. The axle can be thought of as a lever with a fulcrum at the outer bearing. The ratio between the short length of axle beyond the bearing and hub relative to the length to the inner bearing gives some idea of the local loads involved. The axle must resist the weight of the rider and any road shocks applied through the wheel. The majority of the bending forces occur in the short distance between the outer axle bearing and the inner side of the wheel hub.

My Higgins has a single, fixed, bottom bracket cup behind the cassette. So one was provided in the "kit" already fitted with its journal bearing. Many more Higgins trikes have an adjustable bearing cup behind the sprocket block instead. In the image above, the special, Trykit, double-freewheel, "freehub" is shown on on the left with its adjustable, cassette, stop ring.


A closer view inside the Trykit 2WD body. With central blanking plate and the pawl carriers with hex-shaped cut-outs to match the inner axle ends. Note the way the axle extends at the full 17mm diameter right out to the conical section which fits the matching female cone of the Higgins hub. The parallel section, to the left of the conical section, is actually hidden within the wheel hub.

Inside the special, Trykit, 2WD freehub there are two pairs of pawl carriers. With three pawls each per independent axle drive. Six pawls in total per axle. The large female thread just inside the body is for the standard, male Shimano Cassette locking ring. This ring also holds the top gear sprocket(s) in place as it clicks down tight using the special splined tool. These parts are typical freehub mechanics and safely avoids unique engineering principles. With possible catastrophic redundancy if the parts became suddenly unavailable.

Geoff is to be highly commended for his common sense in his 2WD design. Bicycle free-hubs are in universal use on racing and mountain bikes. So are likely to remain in use for many years to come. So matching multi-sprocket (Shimano standard) cassettes and locking rings, and their fitting tools, are all likely to remain available for decades.


Just look at the sheer quality of machining of the Trykit double freewheel body!
Geoff uses spark erosion to produce the internal ratchets. The number of teeth on the ratchets has been optimised to match tooth size and longevity.

Shown above: A trial assembly of the two axles into the body. The axles are a snug push fit in the sealed, body bearings and pawl carriers. The locking ring sneaks up behind the cassette and holds the cassette in place as if there was a standard Shimano freehub shoulder. Except that Geoff Booker (the proprietor of Trykit Conversions) has provided an adjustable shoulder in the form of a screwed ring. Both clever, flexible and practical. Even the ring is a standard bottom bracket, bearing cup, locking ring.  So again, no risk of early redundancy through loss of a simple part of the whole.


The Trykit double freewheel body internals showing the double pawls in their carriers, 27-tooth ratchets and central spacer. The central spacer is to allow the owner to safely drive out the pawls and bearings for maintenance. Spare pawls and springs are available if needed. The sealed, journal bearings are affordable, standard designs available globally.

These are likely to last a very long time because they are all safely sealed and only turn (as bearings) when free-wheeling under almost zero load. The rest of the time they merely support the freehub and cassette concentrically on the inner axle ends. While pedalling, the entire trike axle arrangement rotates as one. Road wheels, half axles, freehub, bearings, pawl carriers and the multi-sprocket cassette. Although these bearings have to resist chain loads they are easily large enough for the task. On a bicycle, a freehub bearing rotates constantly on the rear axle whether you pedal or freewheel. A normal freehub's bearings are almost pathetic compared with those used in the Trykit body.

Light grease is recommended for lubrication of the Trykit freehub body pawls. These make a very quiet but pleasant buzz when free-wheeling at walking pace. Though it has to be very quiet indeed to hear this sound. I don't freewheel much so I rarely hear anything at all from the Trykit 2WD system and its axles. 

I believe this is the Mk4 version of the Shimano-fit body as Geoff finds new ways to improve his product. Shimano cassettes up to tens speeds are compatible. With a minimum of an 11 tooth, top gear sprocket allowed in the latest iteration of this very special, Trykit, double freewheel freehub.

Geoff also offers special axles to convert a Higgins trike to a 15mm bore Trykit or Longstaff hub fitting. These have larger axle dimensions than the Higgins where it really matters. Offering much greater strength at the cost of slightly increased weight. Though hollow axles can mitigate against the extra weight without much loss of strength.

I had bought new, Higgins-fit wheels from Geoff only 9 months earlier. So was in no hurry to discard them or leave then lying around unused. So I chose to continue with Higgins-fit axles. Denmark has zero demand for spare trike bits and pieces. Postage to the UK is prohibitive. So it is not easy to put anything on eBay(UK). Geoff's design for the axles easily overcame the bottle-neck in the original Higgins cone section. So I was confident the new axles would easily outlast me despite my choice of the smaller section, Higgins fit hubs and axles. 


A comparison shot of the Higgins original axles and components with the Trykit parts just above. The clever Trykit 1WD freehub adaptor kit lies at bottom left. (now unused) Here, the Trykit 2WD body has been fitted into a 7-speed Shimano cassette. Now modified to a 13-28T 7 speed from an 8 speed, 11-28T by the substitution of a larger, single, top gear sprocket instead of a double. I hardly ever feel the need for a very high top gear even on the steepest descent. I would much rather have a closer ratio, 8-speed 14- 28T cassette.


The Trykit lock-ring has been snuggled up against a spacer ring behind the Shimano cassette. The Trykit 2WD body will take cassettes up to 10 speeds. My modified, 7 speed cassette found the thread just slightly too short. All it needed was a simple packing ring to take up the free play. Such spacer rings were once widely available from better bike shops for spacing bottom bracket cups.


Here I am checking the vital clearance between the inner axle ends with a 4mm Allen key. Using a round, 4mm rod or drill shank would have been slightly more accurate.

BTW: On Geoff's advice I regularly checked the freedom of the axles during assembly by rotation with my fingers. This helped to ensure there was no binding of the bearings through over-tightening of the adjustable bearing cups. A tiny amount of end play is desirable for long bearing life. Though too much end play might affect indexed gearing.

As can be easily seen in the image above: My left, axle bearing cup is non-adjustable. So the right side cup was carefully adjusted to just nip the hex key very lightly. Note that both outer axle bearings in their screw cups were fitted to ensure the axles were properly aligned for this axle spacing measurement.

The hexagonal, inner axle ends fit the twinned pawl carriers inside the 2WD body. The turned sections alongside these fit the 2WD body bearings. Which are slightly smaller bore than the axle bearings. As can be seen by the larger, parallel section on the right protruding through the axle bearing. This clearly "steps down" in diameter from the 17mm bearing bore to the 15mm cassette body bearing diameter on the right axle stub.  


Trial assembly: Note the "deliberate" mistake! I forgot the locking ring on the right side adjustable bearing cup! So I had to withdraw the right side axle again to be able to fit it in place. This is not too difficult if the wheels nut is fitted to give yourself something to pull against. The outer bearing cup has to be removed first or the axle will not come out.

Once in place I watched the adjustable bearing cup carefully as I tightened the lock-ring. Just to avoid it turning and undoing my earlier 4mm measurement. If you find yourself  assembling one of these 2WD axles yourself then do fit the lock-ring first. Then tighten it properly before being fully satisfied with your final 4mm measurement! You have been warned! Do as I say! Not as I do! ;-)


The right side, adjustable cup, lock-ring is now safely in place. The chain has been tied up to the upper, axle, reinforcing loop. My poor old Higgins has suffered some cosmetic damage to the paintwork over the years. If my trike was as immaculate as are many others I would have protected the reinforcing loops with taped on paper or cardboard before starting work. I treat my trike as something I ride every day at the cost of some slight loss of appearance. If I started worrying about the paintwork I'd need to fit a proper rear carrier for my huge shopping bag. Then spend hours cleaning the trike instead of adding more miles. Your mileage may vary. :-)


Ready for  the road! With the Suntour ARX, rear gear changer refitted to the Trykit hanger. Followed by a quick wipe over to remove the oily fingerprints from the trike frame for the picture. Had I been more fastidious, and less impatient to try out the 2WD, I would have cleaned the cassette thoroughly before fitting it.  It was now 7pm. Dinner and dusk threatened! 


Note the extra clearance between the outer bearing cup and the Trykit hub. After discussion with Geoff it was decided that I could risk an extra 6mm of extension (over the usual clearance) beyond the outer axle bearings. I was hoping for a little extra width on the rear wheel track for greater lateral stability on rough roads. Plus room for a cup-adjusting spanner without removing the wheels. The diameter of the axle is 17mm where it fits through the axle bearings. This diameter is carried right through to the conical seating of the Higgins fit hubs. Unlike the Higgins originals. Which are actually stepped and reduced to two flats to take the removable cones at the most highly stressed point anywhere on the original Higgins axles!

A Longstaff axle is much beefier and could more easily accept the extra loads from spacing the wheel hub just a little further out beyond the outer bearing. The Higgins is strictly limited by the internal size of the original tubular axle casing between the bearing cups. This short, visible axle section is the most heavily loaded part of the entire machine. One cannot just keep adding axle extension without very serious risk of failure. Not even with high quality, modern steels. The axle would bend very slightly on every bump. Eventually and inevitably it would work harden the steel. Leading eventually to fatigue. Then one day it might just snap off without warning! Probably when one is many miles from home just as a heavy vehicle passes.

A broken trike axle is too awful to contemplate in traffic! It is a disaster at any time and one should check the wheel fixing nuts regularly to avoid accidents. I read about one racing tricyclist who forgot to fix the wheel nuts on his trike just before a race. He had severe injuries when the wheels literally fell off! It's a long way down when you suddenly lose over a foot of axle height between you and the vicious tarmac!

After reading about trike axle breakage online I must admit to having had a real sense of insecurity when running about on the original 56 year-old Higgins axles. Every time I was passed by a six axle, Continental, HGV colossus I would worry about the Higgins axles. Every time I exceeded 30mph going downhill I would worry. New axles in high quality steel, without the stress-raising sharpness of the cone seatings, are a real bonus with the Trykit 2WD.

I could have bought new just  a set of OWD (One Wheel Drive) axles from Geoff but chose to buy the 2WD system at the same time. I knew I'd want 2WD sooner, rather than later. Then I would have no use for two pairs of redundant, OWD axles when I finally made my mind up.  Special new axles are required for the 2WD system because they must reach inside the 2WD body. They must also accept journal bearings.

I shall discuss my Trykit 2WD riding experiences in the next chapter: Which, thanks  to the strange logic of reversed blog posts, is actually first. So you're probably reading this chapter long after you've read about my riding my trike with Trykit 2WD fitted. 

A link to 2WD maintenance instructions on the Trykit website:

http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/trykit/Service%20instructions%20for%20axles.htm

Another of my blog posts discussing 2WD maintenance one year on:

http://pedal-trikes.blogspot.com/2011/09/trykit-2wd-maintenance.html

Later note: I discovered something much later while playing about with 10 speed indexed gears on my old Higgins: When ordering a 2WD system for an old Higgins trike Ask Geoff to design the new axles to bring the largest (bottom gear) sprocket to the centre of the reinforcing axle cage. This will allow the largest possible sprocket to be fitted, if desired, when using a 9 or 10 speed cassette. This is easily taken care of my extending the new, left axle slightly and shortening the new right side one. This will help to bring the 2WD freehub to the centre of the axle reinforcing loops. If this is not done the largest sprocket will lie too close to the reinforcing loops. Limiting the largest bottom gear sprocket to only 26T in my case. This forces the use of a smaller inner chainring to make the gear ratios low enough for climbing steep hills while maintaining a high cadence.  

Click on any image for an enlargement. Back click to return to the text.

*

18 Sept 2010

Lady Higgins

*
Yet another trike has come up on eBay. A 1965 Higgins Lady's model with Sturmey-Archer internal (hub) gears and Higgins specially extended axle reinforcing arrangements to match.

RARE VINTAGE HIGGINS TRICYCLE,3 WHEEL ADULT BIKE on eBay (end time 26-Sep-10 22:05:21 BST)

The lady's step-through frame would suit those needing easier access than the men's model when mounting the tricycle. Such a machine offers the advantages of the handicap tricycle but with much reduced weight. Making it much easier to manoeuvre when dismounted and much easier to pedal when climbing hills. At the same time it offers the fittest cyclist the full triking experience.

No doubt a skilled frame builder could easily change the top tube to a horizontal one if desired.  No new lugs are involved on a fillet-brazed frame like this one. The only practical downside I can see to the lady's model is not being able to hang a leg over the missing top tube when cornering hard. Though the saddle could probably substitute. 

I have enlarged the original eBay auction images in PhotoFiltre from 500 x 375 to 800 x 600. Slight increase in gamma and contrast have been applied to crisp up the images slightly when enlargements are viewed. However, lost resolution cannot be regained.



Overall view showing capacious rear basket.


Higgins Head badge


Left side overall view


Badged head tube, forks and brakes. (Centre-pull and cantilevers)



A close-up of the braking arrangements. Mafac 'skeleton' cantilevers on braze-on bosses on the forks with a Weinman centre-pull mounted up front.


Chainset, pump and rear basket. The small chainwheel will provide comfortably low gears.


Underside of eccentric bottom bracket showing serial number and shell clamping bolts.


The Sturmey-Archer internal hub gear and extended axle reinforcing loops. The design was intended to allow the standard S-A cable to be used. The same as on bikes fitted with these hub gears. The S-A axle is also supported on the right to resist the heavy loads applied through the chain by the rider. A remarkably simple and clever design which provides similar axle strength to normal trikes without much increase in weight. It also allows the use of a Sturmey Archer hub gear without any major modifications or the use of a lay-shaft. The SA hub gear was appreciated by many for its reliability and freedom from maintenance compared with dérailleurs.



The Higgins brass badge and the SA gear adaptor/extender on the right. The hollow, tubular adaptor is open on one side allowing the S-A hub gear to be bolted to one end and the left axle drive to the other. While still allowing both fixing nuts to be easily accessed with a ring spanner. (wrench)
-----------------------------------------------------------


For those of you wishing earnestly that this was a gent's model:
Just for a bit of fun I drew in a trendy, sloping, gent's top tube and "removed" the original top tube. Just to show how the trike would look as a gent's model.  All it takes is a bit of imagination and a skilled frame builder. No lugs required on a fillet-brazed frame. I'm sure Geoff Booker at Trykit could apply a little of his "magic" here. ;-)

This trike eventually sold for only £156. Probably the low price was due to the trike residing on the Isle of Man. The cost of delivery to the UK being a factor for many potential buyers.

Click on any image for an enlargement. Back click to return to the text.
*