The new [gear cable] noodles are the only clean part of my poor trike! Cleaning with soapy water at temperatures hovering around zero for months on end is no fun! The noodles have the advantage that they are self-aligning. As they rotate they obviate oblique cable angles. The downside is that they use up a lot of extra cable. So are best fitted when replacing the inners with new. I checked the clearances as I turned the steering from lock to lock and all seems well.
Tuesday 3rd 36F, 2C, bright but windy. Gusting to 30mph later with potential wintry showers all day. The wind was roaring in one ear and out of the other as I walked up to the woods. Three skylarks went up and started singing. The first I have heard this year. I watched a crow soaring on the uplift wave with its fingers extended as it traversed the face of the woods. It was much quieter under the trees except for the wind in the canopy. A wall of cloud came over and it started spitting with rain. Just turning to a few flakes of snow as I returned.
Only a short ride in rather mixed, wintry weather. Gear changing is much improved thanks to the new noodles reducing friction. Delays in changing up have gone. Resulting in an occasional bang when I was pedalling hard or climbing out of the saddle and changed to a higher gear. I'm leaving the brake cable noodles alone for the moment. I was so horrified by the flash image of the trike that I spent some time cleaning it! 7 miles pm.
As soon as the weather improves I shall have to spring clean the trike. With a new chain and cassette seriously overdue after a long, wet and salty winter. The 10speed Ultegra has lasted well compared with other cassettes despite rarely enjoying a clean.
With the consideration of urgent replacement of the gear train I am now seriously considering changing to a double chainwheel instead of a triple. I haven't used the 48T outer chainring for as long as I can remember. More often than not the chain is thrown right over and straight onto the crank! Any less lateral adjustment and it won't change or the chain grinds on the cage. I even had to modify the cage to stop the middle chainring being wrecked! So what's the point?
My present 38T middle ring has easily high enough gears on the small end of the 10sp cassette for downhill use. While I only rarely use the 28T inner ring too. So could go with a single ring if it were not for a desire to retain an ultra-low gear for emergencies. You never know when you will really need a granny/crawler gear! For a tourist any higher gears are only a useful luxury for those rare occasions.
I already have an unused Campag 11 speed Athena double front changer. I bought it hoping it would act as a triple but it just hadn't the lateral movement to reach the largest ring. It has a minimum stated ring size of 34t so a 33t should be okay. A 33t inner is as small as one can go with a 110mm PCD double crank.[Spa XD-2 or TD-2 with custom TA rings.]
I thought something like a Spa TD-2 43/33 double might suit with a 12-32t 11sp cassette. These cranks are rather light, quite pretty and don't rapidly show their age like the much more expensive, coloured kit. The TD-2 has all five of its spider arms visible. The XD-2 hides one of them behind the crank with a concealed screw. Prices for these chainsets, fitted with standard ring sizes, make a complete and utter mockery of the weekend warrior's foolish expenditure on much heavier bling!
I have been using 160mm cranks for quite a long time now but recently have been [deliberately] doing a lot more climbing out of the saddle. I think I might go back to 170mm cranks. The 160s don't really suit "out of the saddle" efforts. They always feel "too small, too round and too smooth." With no additional torque possible by pulling up hard on the pedals to sprint harder as the rider's weight presses down on the other side. Instead of which it feels like I am constantly under-geared even when my speed is dropping from pushing too high a gear! There just isn't time, at the necessarily high cadence, to pull up on the pedals.