9 Apr 2010

April full

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Ist April 2010. 38F, wet and windy turning to snow then sleet. An 8 mile shopping trip left me soaked to the skin. I need a mud flap on my front mudguard. The water was pouring off the front wheel, through the ventilation net of my shoes and out of the cleat fixing area of the soles. My windproof jacket is not remotely waterproof. The road was so wet that standing water was lying in sheets.

April 2nd. 41-47F. Mostly dry but windy again. 12m/s = 25mph. I decided to tip  the Brooks slightly nose up to see if it helped. Not noticeably. My confidence is improving so I am increasing my radius from home to take in new places. I  should have done the headwind leg first but that is rarely possible if one has a particular goal. Pedals still good as are the shoes. Saddle still extremely variable. 35 miles.

April 3rd. 37-41F. Cool, very windy. Only time for a couple of short rides. The shop in Odense replaced my GPS unit under guarantee without a problem. Rain forecast all day for tomorrow. I suppose it will help to dilute the remaining road salt. It may even wash away some of the dunes of sand. Which was presumably mixed into the salt for more grip. Or was part of the rock salt.

I have to make a decision soon on touching up the paintwork on the Higgins. (or completely repainting it) I have to do something to stop it rusting where there is now only bare metal. Much as I liked the original purple I find it a bit dowdy now. The problem is then of finding a matching touch up paint. Or worse; making a decision on a new colour. I don't have the funds, right now, to hand the job to a bike painting specialist. Though there is a local car sprayer where I know one of the staff.  I might ask about pricing. They have a baking oven and may even have a more gentle form of "sand" blasting. I don't know anybody who does powder coating. Or even if it is applicable to a 56 year-old, 531 trike frame. I'll have to do some homework online. Only 18 miles today.

April 4th 42F. Slightly less windy. Took advantage of a window forecast between showers. 30 miles.

April 5th. Easter Monday.  40-44F. Overcast with a stiff westerly breeze. Most of the supermarkets were closed today. Wandered the empty coastal roads and deserted gravel tracks heading north until I found a rural supermarket which is usually open.

Trikes are not really at home on potholed and corrugated gravel tracks. The trike rocks wildly from side to side and the steering gets very unpredictable. With the handlebars thrashing about. Provided one keeps a light touch on the bars it  is usually safe enough. It helps to lift off the saddle to let the trike do its wild cavorting without rattling one's teeth. Having had so much recent practice on ice and snow I just press on as quickly as I dare. I constantly choose my line to stay on the smoothest areas.


Flattened rafts of reeds line the edges of the sea in a quiet inlet north of Assens. The water is covered in a whole variety of nervous birds from swans to large geese to small waders, gulls and ducks. They rise and move away complaining loudly at my disturbance. The track snakes between isolated cottages and farms out on the drained, coastal marshes. This track even has its own cycle route number. [70] Though it is more suitable for a fully suspended mountain bike, with fat tyres, rather than a skinny, lightweight trike on rock hard 700x23s.

The Brooks Professional is getting worse instead of better. Despite over 500 miles riding on it the leather refuses to sink to the pressure of my left sit bone. It could be the 15-odd years in warm, dry, LBS storage which has stiffened the leather excessively. It is becoming so painful to ride on it that I will now have to take desperate measures! It is really spoiling the pleasure of cycling. Either I will have to try some saddle oil in the sit bone area. Or I will have to rest something rounded and heavy on that same area to make the leather sink. Provided it sinks below the present convex form it doesn't matter how, why or when it happens as long as it is soon. The right side is not nearly so bad because it has already wrinkled and deformed slightly to my constantly applied weight and movements as I pedal.

There are no seams in any of my various racing shorts. They go into the wash after every ride anyway. So I really can't blame the shorts for the continuing discomfort. The padding in each pair is different from the others. I have no saddle boils or spots. It is all a matter of localised pressure with not enough padding in the affected area of my anatomy. I  have tried tipping the nose up and moving the saddle back and forth, within its range. Even adjusting the height up and down. Nothing helps. The saddle actually looks oddly twisted now. The leather on the right side is much more wrinkled than the left but the right side is higher.


My Brooks Professional saddle after 520 miles.



Cruel and unnatural treatment? A batten through the saddle wires provides resistance to the two G-cramps *very gently* deforming the leather top. I have protected the leather with closed cell foam to soften the pressure points. First  I applied a little horse saddle oil only to the pressure areas on top and on the undersides. The spine of the saddle must not be softened or deformed so I carefully avoided getting any oil on this area by using a single digit as the applicator.

I sat on various breadths of timber to discover that my sit bones are about 3.5" apart where it matters. So they fall naturally within the correct area of the saddle. Though it may be that they are also being forced apart by the convex curvature of the very stiff saddle top. As well as suffering from localised pressure.  I  have only deformed the leather by about 1/4" with the cramps. The leather is far too hard/stiff to bend this far with my bare hands. Though the right side is very noticeably softer than the left to finger pressure. The deformation with the cramps can be repeated as often as necessary. BTW: Left and right are relative to the forward-facing rider. Not as seen in the images above.

I have no intention of damaging my precious saddle. I only want to accelerate the breaking in to save myself from further suffering. If something doesn't give soon I'll have to go back to the Vetta SL! It really is that bad. The Brooks has become the new and severe limitation on my daily mileage. I can still feel my poor, complaining sit bones as I sit here in a comfortable chair at the computer. Grr. One thing after another!

Well, I gave the cramps an hour and checked the leather deformation after removing the cramps. The right side seems a fraction lower than before. The left side returned to its original convex form! So I have added more protective foam and screwed down a bit more on the left cramp. The right cramp has been removed.  I'll check the curves again after a couple of hours to see if any progress is being made. If the cramp doesn't press it down permanently it is hardly surprising the left side hasn't moved despite the 520 miles of exposure to my sit bones and a goodly proportion of my near-12 stone.

Here's a link to a fairly decent image of the human pelvic girdle and the offending sit bones: [Lat: Ischial tuberosities]


http://cyclemaven.files.wordpress.com/2008/12/sits-bones.jpg?w=300&h=209

It seems too obvious to mention that most of us will have different spacing and different forms of these bony extensions. Our skeletons are all very different from each other just as a result of our skeletal frame size, height, reach and leg length. Expecting one saddle to fit all is never likely to make much sense. The promise of perfect comfort, some time down the road, no longer outweighs the countless miles of real pain and discomfort. Many do not reach leather saddle nirvana and will have suffered (perhaps) months of pain without ever receiving the final reward. Of a saddle which does not torture them whenever they climb onto it.

If you find a man-made saddle which you can live with in perfect, long term harmony give grateful thanks. I strongly suggest that you invest in another example before the manufacturer goes bust, is taken over or changes his product lines for the worse. Just be absolutely sure you don't end up with two identical saddles which you loath and detest after 50 miles of riding. Don't expect your saddle to feel comfortable after a lay-off either. You have to rebuild the muscular support and pedalling strength before you become acclimatised (once again) to your old saddle. No doubt most saddle sales occur in the spring. Patience may, or may not, be rewarded if last season's saddle still felt perfectly comfortable after a long ride. With luck and patience it should do so again.

April 6th. 52F. Winds lighter. I left the G-cramps on the saddle overnight with rubber pads to protect the leather. It seems to have worked. (almost) Once mounted, there was a total lack of pain after the misery of the last few days. Only after 15 miles did I begin to notice the localised pressure on the left side. Then it passed and I forgot about the saddle again. It may have started hurting because I was climbing a lot of long steep hills with my hands on the centre tops of the 'bars. I was following my wife's suggestion in wearing two pairs of padded shorts which certainly helped improve comfort.

Don't take my word for it that I have solved the leather saddle, break-in problem. Don't blame me if you try the same idea and utterly ruin your beautiful saddle. I have ridden mine for over 500 miles and applied Proofide. Even tried some saddle oil to distinct areas only. It is extremely unlikely your own treatment of your saddle remotely matches mine. It is guaranteed our bone geometries do not match. The likelihood of your leather being the same as mine is also extremely slim. Mine doesn't even seem to match from one side to the other. I presume the original skin has been cut mildly wedge-shaped rather than of perfectly even thickness. It may be that leather is not entirely predictable over the width of a saddle.  Brooks today is probably not the Brooks of fifteen years ago. Nor will most buyers get such an old saddle masquerading as new.

I am fully aware that a single depression of the leather, by indecent force, is not the same as hundreds of thousands of applications of oscillating pressure by my own sit bones. It's just that I don't feel I have very much choice in the matter any more. I have tried both ways. Only the wrong way produced a result which allowed me to continue cycling in some comfort. The correct way patently did not! Not even after 500 miles of increasing pain and discomfort! Once injury is caused it takes time to recover. Even when the offending object is removed or modified.    

The saddle leather marks incredibly easily. So I used the large rubber sealing pads from the new cycling shoes for protection from the cramps. These pads were ideal. Being slightly curved, soft but firm and of a good thickness. I think I will apply only one cramp overnight on the recalcitrant side. Just to show who is boss. It still hasn't sunk remotely as far as the other side. I am using the shape and orientation of the depression on the right as the model for the left. I have no reason to suppose that I am particularly lop-sided down there. Time will tell.

The feeling when I first climbed on the trike today was a saddle contour which fitted me like it had been moulded to me. It reminded me of one of those old, pressed steel, vintage tractor seats. The ones that look as if they have been shaped on a real person's derrière. A glimpse, perhaps, of the ideal, leather saddle form once it has been fully broken in.  The curves are still very subtle, even now. 25 mostly comfortable miles, uphill and down, in the weak, spring sunshine.

April 7th. 48-51F Sunny and windy again. Took the cramps off the saddle but it was instantly uncomfortable on the left side as I climbed on. Probably bruising caused by previous rides. The saddle varied from hurting to unnoticeable over the next 23 miles. I only had a 2 hour window to ride in.

A burst pipe blocked my way down a tiny rural lane. With no easy route options I took to the soggy field for a hundred yards. Then continued on my way. I'm now wearing a florescent, Giordana cycling jacket. Many motorists seem to be getting rather close in their desperate attempts to get past. Despite being thin and lightweight the jacket is amazingly windproof. I started off wearing a jumper under it but soon removed it. With just the polyester vest underneath the tightly knit polyester jacket wasn't at all sweaty and was very comfortable at 50F temperatures. My vest also remained dry instead of becoming wringing wet down the back as it usually does with heavier jackets.

I now weigh 11.5 stone, 160lbs or 74kg in my shorts and vest. Height 5'10".  I think I was somewhere around 13.5 stone last summer before I started riding a trike seriously. The amazing improvement in my health is all down to cycling. My diet hasn't changed much. Though I always ate fairly sensibly. There used to be the weekly Danish pastries at work and lots of free, but foul, industrial grade black coffee. Those have both disappeared from my diet. We haven't had sugar in the house for decades. I have always avoided fizzy sugar drinks. I drink pure apple juice from a small box with a straw if I'm thirsty these days. Though usually I forget to drink it when I'm out on the trike. This is probably a mistake and I should really drink and eat more on a ride to keep me going.

April 8th. 45-50F. I listened to my wife's advice and put two pairs of racing shorts on again. It worked well with very little discomfort from the saddle today. I was feeling quite strong and enjoyed the ride more than usual. This was despite pushing myself quite hard on the hills and into the wind. It occurs to me that the shopping bag must add a couple of square feet to my frontal area. Which is okay when it's full of shopping but could be reduced considerably when empty. Perhaps I should experiment with a strap or two to draw it into a smaller drag profile? While it may be partially obscured by my flailing legs it is still a very box-shaped parachute. It is also getting heavier as my tool kit grows foolishly to cover every possible eventuality. I worry about being marooned and having to walk back a long way as I push my geographical radius ever outwards. A 30 minute ride at 25mph with a tail wind is a very long walk back. There are very few local bike shops on any of my usual routes. 

I really like this new Giordana florescent jacket. It is extremely windproof without extra warmth but still breathes. I just need to remember to take off my jumper a bit earlier before I become too hot. The fear, out on an exposed road, is that I will be too cold without the jumper. Amazingly it's just not true. I just need a few more days of wear to fully accept the concept of modern, windproof, cycling clothing. The elastic in the hem of the jacket needs loosening because it tends to ride up despite the specially long shaping at the rear.  I certainly feel a lot safer in it. I also get a lot more worried glances from would-be suicidal pedestrians as they decide whether to throw themselves under my wheels. Thankfully it looks more like serious cycling wear than my usual dull assortment of winter fleece jackets. Shame about the total lack of pockets. I need a thinner. skullcap, type hat now. My trusty Thinsulate tea cosy is just too warm for 50F. My bike computer rolled over the 1000 mile mark again as I neared home. 25 miles today.

April 9th. 40-46F. Breezy with lots of movement in the trees. I chose the hilliest route I know of with three long hills and lots of smaller ones. I took my jumper off when I warmed up on one long hill but should have put it back on again later. It stayed cold and so did I. Which was a bit silly. I kept going for 30 miles.

I have been experimenting recently with the effect of my one wheel left hand drive on heavily cambered deserted lanes. Naturally I am interested in the effect of left hand drive on Continental roads. OWD seems to be no real handicap on the flat but is very noticeably beneficial on the left of the road. As in the UK. When climbing steep hills the left hand drive helps to lift the trike out of the gutter. The tendency is for the trike to "fall" down the camber towards the left but this is nicely counteracted by the left hand drive. So OWD on the left side is a natural choice for the UK.  If I was heavily laden for touring or wanted the maximum performance for racing I might buy a 2WD system or order it with a new trike. Sprinting out of the saddle would be much easier with 2WD. If I still lived in the UK I probably wouldn't give half as much thought to investing in Two Wheel Drive as I do over here. 

The real problems only start when riding on the (Continental and US) right hand side of the road with left hand side OWD. When climbing steeper hills the front wheel lifts easily and tries to jump hard to the right. The camber is now working against you.  Not only will the trike be driven down the camber by the OWD but the front wheel will see only fresh air as it lifts instead of the solid crown of the road. (As in the UK) The front wheel  tries to turn sideways (to the left) too unless quickly corrected.  The lower the gear the worse it all becomes.

Many cyclists tend to place their hands on the tops of the handlebars, on either side of the stem, when climbing. It just feels like the natural thing to do because it aids breathing and allows you to relax as you climb. This has the distinct disadvantage of pushing the centre of gravity of the rider even further backwards. Further lightening the load on the front wheel. The incline is already pushing the centre of gravity backwards by rotating the rider backwards.  The steeper the camber and the greater the incline the worse it becomes. The combined effect of the camber, the incline, the low gear, the rider's position and any load at the rear is all cumulative. The front wheel lifts with nothing to resist its tendency to swing to the right. Climbing a steep hill becomes a series of front wheel hops and corrections. Leaning well forwards helps a bit but one automatically begins to climb out of the saddle after a while. Standing on the pedals is the only guaranteed way to keep the front wheel firmly down. Though this is quickly exhausting and leaves you no option to select a very low gear and grind your way steadily upwards.    

Why a road needs heavy camber on a steep hill seems odd at first. Perhaps it is to shed water onto the verge to stop it running the entire length of the hill. Thereby avoiding potential flooding at the bottom of the hill. One cannot demand less camber on steep hills just because one rides a trike. Particularly if one is obtuse enough to ride a left hand drive trike on the Continent or in the USA.

Two wheel drive (2WD) makes real sense here. The twin freewheel types of two wheel drive always send your pedalling power to the slower (inner) wheel as you follow any radius. No matter how large or small that radius might be. So in theory it should send the power to the right hand wheel if there is any tendency for the front wheel to lift to the right. The right rear wheel automatically becomes the inner (slower) wheel. The power is then automatically sent to the right rear wheel to help to fight the effects of camber. In practice the drive shifts rapidly back and forth to each independent freewheel in turn. 

Lest anyone should think a one wheel, left hand drive is impossible to use on the Continent nothing could be further from the truth. Only on steep inclines and low pedal rpm does it become a bit of an embarrassment. Keeping up a reasonable cadence avoids a jerky ride with the front wheel pawing the air on each power stoke on the pedals. 

April 10th. Almost a frost overnight. Started my ride at 34F and finished at 40F nearly two hours later. The cold wind increased all day to 15m/s (35mph) and a warmer 50F in the sunshine. Still cool in the shade. 20 miles early morning then 8 miles late afternoon. I have noticed strange pains in my legs for the first time in 6 months. Not the pain of tiredness or lactic acid but odd aches and a feeling like cramp. It may be due to too many hours standing around this week. It was the endless standing which ruined my physical health on the last job.  I have started a new job on a month's trial. I can try limiting the  amount of standing to see if it helps. Perhaps I have been overdoing the training rides and just need a rest day?


I bought a cheap gel saddle cover from a supermarket special offer which was amazingly comfortable on the first, 8 mile ride. It will save a bit of extra laundry not having to wear two pairs of racing shorts for every ride. No doubt doubling up on shorts would become too warm as spring turns to summer. Hopefully by then the Brooks Professional saddle will be far more comfortable. My feeling is that the gel saddle cover will allow the saddle to continue breaking in but without causing me so much discomfort. The cover was so inexpensive that it seemed worth trying. If it had not worked as hoped then little would have been lost. If it allows my nether regions to safely recover from the bruising the saddle has already caused then it will have been well worthwhile.


Brooks Professional. The right hand side could be said to be almost broken in. It has a large smooth depression almost to the centre line. The left side has hardly started to sink into a depression to match my left sit bone. The light spot at the centre rear is where a tiny piece of leather fell out leaving a small,  jagged hole. Perhaps it was a pore?


It is difficult to capture the still-shiny leather of the Brooks Professional to show the effects of natural wear and breaking in. Only the right hand side is depressed into a slightly concave form from well towards the centre of the saddle to the outer edge. The left side remains much the same convex shape as when new. The surface wrinkles are much more obvious on the right. Almost non-existent on the left except at the outer edge. This is after 650 miles!


Here I have outlined the wrinkled areas of the saddle to make it clearer where the depressions lie. It is obvious that one side is far more advanced towards breaking in than the other. Only the left side hurts.

I am now tempted to try the moisture treatment mentioned on a website. A damp cloth is placed only over the area required to be modified for an hour. Then the saddle is rode on while still damp. A G-cramp (C-clamp) and a piece of soft rubber packing will do instead for a first experiment.  I will try the left side only to see if it works.

Three overall applications of Proofide and two (localised) of horse saddle oil have had no effect on the very hard left side so far. The yellow line indicates where a depression needs to spread even to start matching the present right hand side. The difference in feel between the two sides is even more noticeable now.  The right side flexes to my thumb pressure in the middle of the depression. The left side not at all. No matter how hard I press in a similar position it does not move.


I knew I should have bought a bigger trike! Looks like I'm carrying a bit of extra ballast in the jacket too! :-)

April 11th. Cold, grey and windy again. 40-42F. 15m/s = 32mph. Sun forecast all day but it has been overcast since early on. Tried to find a route which avoided a head wind but it is so strong every direction seemed to have a head wind. The trike itself complains about the wind with a forlorn whistle from the perforations in the brake levers. I went out in two jackets and a jumper and still had them all on when I returned! My eyes were watering and my nose running continuously and I wasn't going anywhere fast today. Except for one iffy descent at 32 mph on a very bumpy main road with a a car on my shoulder desperate to pass me in the built up area!  After 27miles, mostly on the middle chainring, I'd had enough for one day. It really is raw and downright unpleasant out there!


Specialized Tahoe shoes now with properly centralised SPD cleats.I has originally set them for maximum crank clearance for my big feet but it really wasn't necessary.

The gel saddle cover was fine until after 18 miles and then my left cheek started hurting again. Not as badly as before but it's obviously going to take time to recover from the damage already done. My left thigh also feels a bit tight and as if it is strained. Not badly, but enough to make me want to ease off a bit on the hills. I have lowered the saddle slightly and moved the shoe cleats to the centre. Just to see if it reduces the odd aches I have been getting. There was no need to offset the cleats like I did at first. There is plenty of crank clearance for the largest of shoes.

Perhaps I am  simply overdoing it in trying to build my average mileage to 30 per day? If I went more slowly it probably wouldn't be a problem riding 30miles, or more, every day. It's just that I try and ride hard all of the time and it is taking it out of me. Perhaps it is just my age? Or I shouldn't expect to be able to ride like this only 8 months from hardly riding at all? Particularly considering my fitness level when I started.

I may have been very lucky in avoiding any injury so far. Careful attention to my position on the trike and a very steady build up may have protected me so far. Instead of riding a lot further I have been trying to ride harder and faster recently. Taking every advantage of my increasing fitness. Particularly up the hills. I ride for speed. Not duration.

It has been consistently windy for what seems like weeks now. 12-15m/s winds have become a daily routine no matter from which direction it blows. It is a real struggle at times to keep up a good speed (above a 12mph minimum) into a strong headwind. It is very tiring to ride fast in windy conditions no matter how low a gear I select and try to increase my cadence to compensate. When the wind, or the incline eases off,  I immediately change up a gear or two. Then start pushing harder again. My expectations have been increasing in line with with my improved fitness level.

Perhaps I am simply expecting too much from an ageing body? If I had ridden seriously all of my life I would have had many hundreds of thousands of miles of accumulated muscle strength and sinewy  toughness by now. I didn't do so and my overall mileage in the last decade is still quite pitiful even now. When I was young I rode as many miles in a week as I average in a month these days. I lived on the bike and always road hard wherever I went. It became a habit. What a shame that I did not continue.     

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8 Apr 2010

The Slow Thaw

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1st March 2010 has brought a continuing, slow thaw. 34F 1c. Two inches of wet, new snow and gales from the tail end of the storm which ravaged Europe. The permafrost of the last three months has turned into a soggy quagmire. A bit tired today but 22 miles is a good start to the new month.

March 2nd 38F, 3C. Sunny with gusty wind to 15m/s. Blew me right across the road when I passed a gap in a hedge going downhill. Survived 15 miles to tell the tale. Looked at the bottom bracket but the bearings seem fine. It may be the knackered chain making the clonking noise when I pedal. Silent when I stop pedalling or pedal backwards so it's not the back axle bearings.

March 3rd nearly 40F! A strong headwind 15m/s made me feel very tired so I came straight home after shopping. I'm wondering if I'm over-training or just run down from a virus? My heels are deep purple and hurting so I'm trying some special cream. I have never had problems with my heels before. They feel dry around the edges and hurt when I walk but not on the bike. I'll try the cycling shoes again now it's safer to walk. 10 miles.

March 4th 29F. Sunny but very cold, blustery wind. I was having a pleasant ride when the thread stripped in the bottom bracket axle of my left crank ten miles from home! It took me an extra half hour to get home having to stop every hundred yards to re-tighten the screw. I called in at a couple of garages to borrow their 14mm socket wrench but the screw just wouldn't hold despite the thread looking perfect.  I'd changed the chain before I left and this had all but stopped the noisy clonking. I had also returned to the standard Trykit gear hanger. Moving the changer under the axle may have given better chain wrap but it slowed the gear change when I finally fitted a decent chain to play with. This also cured the chain jumping around the rear sprocket. I tried to change the bottom bracket set when I got home but the first two I removed from other bikes were continental threads! So I wasted half an hour and had to borrow an axle and cups from the only British frameset I own. The 531 butted Claud Butler. I was once stopped in the street by an eccentric bike fanatic and told it might have been pre-war. As I'd bought it secondhand from a bike shop (and paid far too much for it) I may never know. Perhaps somebody records frame numbers against years? 17 rather difficult miles.

March 5th 19F. -7C. Sunny and almost still. It's early. So off we go again. 


Repair stop. I have often admired that beautiful oak tree. So today it had its portrait taken. The left crank worked loose again despite the new axle. Fortunately I was carrying a 14mm tubular spanner this time and used an Allen key for leverage. It stayed tight for the ten miles home but may need the tapers cleaning on the crank and axle. I find dry joints hold better here than greased surfaces. Whereas the hubs and stub axles of trikes should be greased to ensure easy wheel removal. I found the new wheels very easy to remove once the axle nuts had been loosened.  They came off just by giving them a waggle at opposite sides of the rim.  The gears were working better today and the clonking noises completely gone. I should have changed the chain long before now but feared the road salt would quickly ruin a new chain. There is a cloud of salt in the air behind every vehicle. I can often taste it as they race past.

 I finally found the limits of my big bike bag today. The Higgins shopping trolley became bag lady's trolley for the day. I had to hang my trainers and second fleece jacket off the bag because it was so full of shopping.  It had been very cold at the start of my ride so I had deliberately overdressed. Then I had warmed up by the time I had reached the supermarket so stripped off the jacket, scarf and waistcoat. The trainers were back-up in case I needed to walk home because I wore my cycling shoes again today. Despite the thaw it will be weeks before all the snow and ice has cleared. It is still very cold at night so the melt water often turns to sheet ice in the shadows beneath high hedges and trees. I felt cold going into the slight headwind and my toes became very cold. Then they warmed up again when I turned out of the wind. I don't seem to be able to win this game against winter cold. 23 miles.

March 6th. More snow. We were caught a long way from home in the car in a blizzard yesterday evening. The windscreen kept icing over lifting the wipers off the glass. It took a couple of hours to get home driving on a few inches of inches of snow in the dark and stopping regularly to clear the ice from the screen. Spent a few hours today clearing snow but the roads were still a mess late this afternoon despite the sunshine. It's 10F right now. About -12C.  The forecast was -6C. This won't help to clear the roads. 0 miles today.



March 7th. Cold, windy, icy on minor roads. GPS logger has stopped working. 28miles.

March 8th 8F -2C. Freezing fog. Trees still covered in frost late afternoon. 15 meandering miles on snow and ice in the lanes through hamlet  and village.

Another day. Another road. Another snowdrift. This must be 11 continuous weeks now with at least 6" of snow lying on the lawn.

March 9th 34F, 1C. Freezing fog same as yesterday. A pleasant, late afternoon ride trying to stay off the main roads as much as possible. 26 comfortable miles without the slightest discomfort in my legs. I must be getting fitter. Normally I would notice some stiffness and and aches after a reasonable ride. Today I felt strong and no sensation of having ridden at all. A lot of Brooks Professional saddles are coming up on eBay(UK) but they all make far more than I really want to spend on a secondhand saddle.

March 10th. Out all day. The faulty GPS logger was replaced without any fuss. 0 miles.

March 11th. 34F. Misty with light drizzle. Very little wind. The left crank repeatedly came loose again. It must have stretched around the axle taper over time. It will have to be scrapped. Though I may try a deeply dished washer first to see if that helps. The axle end is flush with the crank surface where the underside of the head of the fixing screw presses via a large, flat washer. Tightening the screw just presses the flat washer against the axle end without any pressure on the crank itself. 

I was attacked by two different, golden retriever, type crosses today. One of them being my idiot neighbour's dog for the umpteenth time!. It was racing in and out of the two-way, 50mph traffic, on a blind bend, in its desperate attempts to attack me. The other was a huge dog which belonged to a farm machinery repair service station on a quiet rural lane. It chased me for over half a mile as I sprinted for all I was worth!  I was doing over 25mph for most of the chase. It only stopped chasing when it lunged at me and put a foot under the left wheel. The back wheels have saved me from a serious bite several times now. Can you imagine if I'd been very elderly or a disabled tricyclist? I'd have been chewed to pieces! No sign of the owners of course.

I'm going to carry a small personal alarm on a cord around my neck in future. Just as an experiment to see if it deters vicious dogs.  If that doesn't work I'm going to carry an alloy tube in spring clips under the top tube to defend myself. It shouldn't be remotely necessary and I quite like dogs in general.  The police presence is so sparse that it would be completely pointless contacting them. It would be more likely to lead to revenge attacks judging by the knuckle dragger's usual behaviour. 19 difficult miles in a figure of eight. Getting slowly wetter and with regular stops for tightening the crank fixing screw and with fast sprints in between. I'm sure there was no mention of employing vicious dogs in the chapter on interval training. At least I have an active GPS logger to record my routes again.

March 12th 40F, 4C. Westerly wind 10m/s. Changed the crank. Then had to swap the pedal, clip and toe-strap. Very little ice remaining on the minor roads now.  No loose dogs today. I took a riding crop just in case I needed to defend myself. It is very light and won't injure a dog. It rests securely and comfortably under the straps of my bag  ready for immediate use. Pepper spray is illegal in Denmark unless wielded by a policeman.  25 miles enjoyable miles up hill and down dale on the roads recently denied to me by the grip of winter.

March 13th 40F, 4C. Sunny periods, wind picking up to 12 m/s. I bought a new chain today but haven't fitted it yet. I'm fed up with the clonking coming and going. A meandering ride along minor roads full of new potholes. They spent a fortune moving hills and making lakes to build a huge golf course but now let the roads going there literally fall to pieces. There are places where there is nowhere left to ride on smooth tarmac. I have to pick my way slowly through the crumbling gravel and deep, water-filled holes. I'm pushing myself harder on hills to build up my strength and fitness. My legs are no longer getting thinner but are finally beginning to build muscle  mass. Particularly on my thighs. I was too warm again today in a single fleece jacket but it wasn't warm enough to take it off.  So I took the Thinsulate hat off instead. Time for thinner gloves and a cooler hat. Losing the skiing tights might help too. Will have to adjust my wardrobe again as spring has sprung. Winter still hanging on in the shade and on north facing slopes. Woodpeckers tapping in the trees, birds of prey soaring and crying and birdsong in the hedges. Groups of Whooper swans in the fields and overhead. 21 rather bumpy miles.

Sunday 14th March. Cloudy with sunny periods. 36-40F. Unpleasantly windy. I rode to the end of a peninsula called Helnæs. (pronounced Hell-ness) A popular, but totally unspoilt, holiday destination with quite a number of summer houses hidden well away from the narrow, meandering roads. Most of Helnæs is open fields with a few woods here and there.


A narrow, winding causeway separates the choppy, open sea on one side from the stillness of the frozen bay on the other.



The view of the causeway looking towards Assens on the return journey. It is difficult to capture the causeway from the other end because the land is so low lying.  There is a handy viewpoint on top of a low hill right at the beginning of the peninsula. The riding crop is proving useful here as a parking brake.


On the causeway looking back towards the Helnæs peninsula. It was very cold in the wind with my eyes and nose streaming and my hands frozen as I held the camera without gloves. Some snow remains  on the frozen sea on the left. Lots of sea birds standing about on the ice. The sharp-eyed will notice the white lighthouse on the extreme right. It is an impressive sight when seen close-to.


Sculpted by the wind and man. This short hedge is practically the only shelter on this road. With the sea beneath cliffs on both sides only a few hundred yards away the wind was whistling through the trike out in the open.
 

The trike resting beside the still frozen sea. There are modest houses on the other side of the road. It was once a fishing village but has now been considerably gentrified.  This is the almost closed off bay within the shelter of the peninsula. It is always noticeably smoother than the open sea regardless of weather conditions. The plastic container sitting on top of the bag is to protect my camera from being knocked about.


The chap on the trike is still following me around. I see he has the same orange lenses in his cycling glasses as I have now. What a poser! :-)

I managed 35 miles today but it was very hard work at times because of the wind. I should have taken something to eat and drink because I was getting rather hungry and tired towards the end. Milky coffee and a toasted bun, with marmalade, soon revived me when I got home. Though by then it was too late to help me over the last ten miles into the wind. It's now 2 o'clock as I am editing this post and it is snowing heavily! The temperature has dropped like a stone from just above 40F down to 32F! And now the sun has come out into a blue sky!

March 15th. 35F 1C. Late ride to the shops and back. As soon as I started pedalling I could feel the pain in my legs from yesterday's ride. Only 12 Miles.


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7 Apr 2010

Gear hanger III (director's cut)

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PLEASE NOTE THAT THIS CHAPTER WAS WRITTEN PRIOR TO CHANGING THE CHAIN FOR A NEW ONE. 

THERE IS NOTHING WRONG WITH THE TRYKIT GEAR HANGER! 

IF YOU SUFFER FROM GEAR PROBLEMS, OR CHAIN SLIP, THEN FIT A NEW CHAIN FIRST.

THIS WILL SAVE A LOT OF TIME, UNNECESSARY EFFORT AND FRUSTRATION! 

19th February 2010 . 1C, 35F! Overcast. Huge snowflakes coming  down in a blizzard to start the day. Everything is dripping and dripping wet. 

Decided to look at the steering and the awful chain slip on the big chainring. Despite being loose the steering is a bit lumpy. I may need to strip it down and have a look at the ball races. But not today.  

The lack of chain wrap was more serious and demanded immediate attention. A gear hanger had come with the Higgins. I had also bought a Trykit gear hanger from Geoff Booker for the Longstaff conversion. After some early trials with both gear hangers I had been running the Trykit hanger on the Higgins. Though I was never very happy about the way it pushed the gear changer pivot so far back relative to the block. Even though  its elegant design had brought the changer pivot point high the rear setting of the hanger pivot made for rather slow and clumsy gear changes. 

The original trike hanger brought the changer immediately below the block but pushed it way down by about 2.5" from the axle centre due to an unnecessarily low pivot point. Which made for even worse gear changes! So neither hanger offered an optimum changer pivot position compared to all of my road bikes with brazed-on gear hangers. One inch down and immediately below the back axle is the standard expected by the rear gear changer pivot on a road bike. Later indexed gear bikes have a more rearward hanger. I only discovered this later.



Older, rear, road drop-outs with threaded gear hanger pivot hole and stop for gear changer adjusting screw.


The clever Trykit gear hanger from the Trykit website.

http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/trykit/Galleries/Trykit%20Parts/pages/10%20Trykit%20Gear%20hanger%20for%20perfect%20indexing%20bracket.htm

I sought a simple solution which would bring the Trykit hanger forwards to just below the axle without losing its closeness to the axle height. In practice this proved remarkably easy. I simply straightened out a standard, chromed steel, front lamp bracket with a hammer and anvil to obtain my raw materials. I sawed off (and discarded) the upright lamp holder section. Then drilled another hole about an inch away from the original fixing hole on the remaining piece. A tidy up with a file and a suitably short bolt (and nut) later and the Trykit hanger pivot hole was ideally placed immediately below the trike axle. Just like a proper road bike!


The shiny bit is the old-fashioned, decapitated lamp bracket made into a forward extension for the Trykit hanger on the right. Alongside is the original gear hanger which came with the Higgins trike. I have no idea as to the history or maker of this particular hanger. Both are of steel and have substantial thickness to maintain rigidity and adequate strength in use. The Trykit hanger is hardened. (as can be readily checked by trying to file it)

It would not require much skill  to make a one piece copy of the extension bracket and Trykit hanger  combination once the exact geometry needed for your trike is discovered by trail and error. It would require a suitable tap to match the fine thread of the gear changer pivot screw. The modified hanger could easily be sawn and ground, or filed, out of a suitable piece of angle iron. Or bent up from a piece of plate steel. Even the area for the fixing hole for the brazed-on boss could be widened and slotted. This would allow some lateral adjustment to bring the gear changer central to the gear block sprockets.

Once the extension was made it required a bit of fiddling to get the rear gear changer centred and straight with the block as I tightened the fixing screws. The Trykit hanger (and the original hanger which came with the trike ) both have long slots to allow crossways adjustment to match the particular gear block and changer in use. Normally the gear hanger fixing screw passes through the slot and is tightened into a brazed-on boss. This is located underneath the axle housing. My extension plate just moved the normal fixing hole position forwards by an inch or so. 

 

Another view of the two gear hangers. They are inverted here compared to their normal downward facing position on the trike. Trykit hanger and extension bracket on the right.

It is absolutely vital, of course, that the new extension bracket/plate never twists or comes loose. Or the bike becomes instantly unrideable. Once I am perfectly satisfied with the hanger position I will drill and rivet a pin through the Trykit hanger and the extension bracket to ensure they never get out of shape. I just hope the Trykit hanger isn't too hard to drill. I suppose I could clean both parts up and braze them together but his would probably soften the hanger.

The weather is still too poor to go out on the road to give it a try right now.  I would need a wet suit, mask and snorkel.

A picture, or two, is worth a thousand words: 



View from beneath showing how the simple extension bracket brings the Trykit hanger forwards and under the gear block. Top gear is presently blocked by the changer hitting the deep head of the fixing bolt. This was just a handy hex head screw I had of the correct size lying nearby.  Filing a chamfer on the hex head of the screw (or thinning the head) should easily solve the top gear problem. My apologies for the disgraceful state of the gear changer. Salt and filth from the roads over months of winter weather riding has really taken its toll. A drop of metal polish should soon clean things up. The Higgins needs a repaint too.



Top, rear view showing how this simple extension plate with two holes has brought the rear changer right under the sprocket block. It does not force the changer downwards or limit the lateral adjustability of the Trykit hanger. In fact the Trykit hanger is lowered slightly but only by a few millimetres because by the thickness of the extension bracket. This is not remotely critical with regards to gear changing. It started pouring with heavy, sleety snow again as I tried to capture these images. I may be able to take some better images in a while.



Here is a view from beneath showing the extension plate/bracket bolted to the gear hanger boss under the axle bearing housing. A machine screw and nut holds the slotted Trykit hanger firmly to the extension plate. One downside with the present bracket&hanger geometry is that the gear changer pivot screw is inaccessible to an Allen key once the hanger and bracket are fixed to the trike. This is very easily overcome by removing the hanger fixing screw first. It is the hanger fixing screw head which blocks access to the pivot screw.



View through the wheel showing the ideal position of the gear hanger pivot just below the sprocket block. Note the excellent chain wrap. Prior to the modification the chain fell vertically from the back of the sprocket block to the top changer pulley in the higher gears. The large chainwheel was using up the free chain length and forcing the pulley cage vertical at the same time as the gear changer body was also drawn vertical by the chain tension. The chain couldn't be lengthened or the small chainwheel became unusable due to a foolishly slack chain. I have great hopes for  the new geometry once it stops raining, sleeting, snowing, flooding, dripping and thawing simultaneously. This is the first real thaw since it snowed before Christmas. It is 35.8F now! +1C. Wow? 

A quick trial round the block in pouring rain suggested the gear change was okay but I had not completely cured the chain slip. Which suggests the chain is knackered by the road salt since nothing else has changed. Still some ice on the minor roads but ridable with care. It just hasn't been a day for cycling. Only four miles. 

20th 1C 34F. Overcast, windy 15m/s gusts. I was being blown around and slowed by the wind but the gears were working okay and I had no chain slip.  Thank goodness I chose to wear the ski goggles. My usual cycling glasses had my eyes watering copiously before I reached the bike shed.
 
Having carefully examined my new hanger arrangement I might try a slightly shorter extension plate. Or probably  shorten the chain slightly instead.  It is rather a long way from the top cage pulley to the sprockets at the moment. Which may be slowing gear changes. Though the gear change certainly feels more positive than it did. 

Tried a detour through the woods but the slight thaw of yesterday hadn't cleared this road at all. It's a shame because I like this road for its scenery, undulations and usual lack of traffic. It is also very useful to put me where I want to be for several further detours. Without this road a large chunk of beautiful countryside is denied to me even if I stick to main roads.




Into the deep, dark woods! Eeny-meeny-miny-mo..In which rut shall I go? It was daft to continue because it got much worse as I went on. Most of the time I was riding in the darker central stripe with two wheels on the icy tarmac and the idler wheel up on on the ice.  The track of the Higgins is six inches too wide for these conditions. The brown slush was highly unpredictable. It was hard, crunchy ice overlying thick water ice in many places! I met about one car per mile which meant I had to stop and climb over the ice ridge to the safety of the verge to let them pass safely. The nearside rut wasn't as wide as the central one and forced me to ride with one wheel up on the even rougher stuff on the verge with the trike leaning at an alarming angle. 



Look no traction! It may look like tarmac but again it was solid ice. I could neither ride nor walk on the black stuff and rapidly ground to a wheel spinning halt. Then I found it impossible to stand up when I climbed off! So I had to take to the snow just to be able to make it up the hill dragging the trike along by the scruff of the neck. 

I took a battering from the wind when I finally escaped from the woods. Despite the higher temperatures (34F, 1C) I had to wrap my face with a scarf to stop it from freezing. It was stinging terribly for a while when I reached open fields without any shelter at all. High winds and snow are forecast for the rest of the day so I may have got off lightly with an early ride. Only 10 rather slow miles so far. I might sneak out again later in the afternoon when the wind is supposed to drop slightly. The trees in the garden are thrashing about at the moment and the wind hasn't even peaked yet. I'm going to have another look at my gear hanger to see if I can improve the chain geometry. Waited as long as I could for the wind to die down and then did another 12 hilly miles pushing as hard as I could. My legs are now much stronger than my breathing capacity.

21st Sunny, breezy, 22F, -6C. Snow drifting overnight. Stripped the head bearings.  Bottom race badly pitted. It will have to be replaced.  Confirmed the number on the fork steerer tube matches the frame number and purple is the original colour.  Though a darker colour when unbleached by sunlight.  Chain stiff in places from road salt despite yet more oil. The 46T chainwheel is largely unusable due to chain slip under load. The chain will have to be replaced very soon even though there is still lots of salt about. 

Quick shopping trip before coffee. Very cold head wind coming back. Now I'm going out again to get some more miles in while the sun shines. Managed another 26 miles before lunch. All the side roads were still iced and snowed up so I was stuck on the busy main roads again. Cold head wind for the last ten miles home so should have put on more clothing to stay warm. It was silly not to put the outer fleece jacket back on. Beard solid with ice. Now -4C, 24.5F and falling again. 33miles total.

22nd Feb 2010. 36F.  Slow thaw with some minor flooding on the roads. Took a route along the coast: I told you it was cold:


The sea is frozen as far as the eye can see.

 

 Snow covered sea ice for several miles under a cold sky.



Frozen waves.

The minor roads are improving but only slowly. It seems almost impossible to judge the air temperature from the saddle of a bike or trike. Despite it being slightly above freezing, when I left home today, it felt bitterly cold despite my wearing two jackets.  The only subjective indication of near freezing conditions is a runny nose and a regular cough to clear my throat. Lower temperatures don't seem to have this effect. Even the ice in my beard seems to be independent of temperature. My hands and feet can be warm one day and freezing the next. Though this is usually due to wind chill when fighting a headwind. Air temperature still isn't a clear indicator of its severity. Despite riding almost every day for months through unusually cold weather I still haven't any fast rules how I should dress for the day's conditions. It is usually a case of going outside to see how cold it actually feels and how the wind is behaving.  23 miles of mostly sunshine today. 

23rd. -1C, 30F. One inch overnight snowfall. Cold northerly wind. 19 miles.

24th  Cold, gales and snow falling all day. 0 miles. 

25th 35-37F. 2-3C. Day started with wet, heavy and sticky new snow lying and a lethal ice layer over everything. Then a slow thaw with rain. Roads very wet with lots of big puddles behind ice and snow dams. It will get much worse because the drains are covered in month's old snow and ice. The fields have yet to shed their accumulated now as melt-water. Lanes still have lots of ice ridges from traffic packing  down old snow in the same tracks. Nearly fell off a couple of times when there was nowhere left to run the wheels safely while going downhill over thick, lumpy ice! Am I having fun yet? :-) 15 miles.  

 

26th A tropical 40F! 4C! Light winds. Thawing. Streams of melt water running along, up, down and across the roads. Quite a still, bright day so I made the most of it and did a circle of three villages for shopping before morning coffee. I was soon stripped down to shorts and jumper. Bottom bracket now knocking loudly. They're old journal bearings I put in myself when I got the Higgins. So I'll just borrow a conventional cup and cone axle set from another bike. I'll change to a used chain too until the road salt is washed away. 23miles.

27th 35F, 1C, gales and rain all day. When it stopped raining I took a chance for a late afternoon ride. The cycle lanes and minor roads are finally clearing of ice and snow but it is still banked up high either side of many roads. Green visible in the fields for the first time in months. Only 12 miles.  

28th Feb 2010. 38F 3C. There are no roads remaining impassable now. Even the sea has (mostly) returned to its normal consistency. Finished the month with a meandering 30 mile ride down to the coast and back. A headwind was building towards the end and I was getting a bit tired. 



That chap in the mirror is following me around. Amazing! He has a trike too. ;-)

IMPORTANT NOTE: All my efforts to improve the Trykit gear hanger were pointless. Had I simply replaced the salt-damaged and completely worn out chain I would have enjoyed crisp gear changes again. I was fixing a problem which simply did not exist. My reluctance to "waste"   a new chain in continuing, very poor,  road conditions was my downfall. NOT the Trykit gear hanger. As soon as I "borrowed" a usable chain from another bike all was well again. I removed the extension plate because it served no useful purpose and actually made things much worse! Three months later I am still using the usable chain. The new chain I bought is still sitting in its box.



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